DESPITE THE latest in digital modeling technology, it’s hellishly difficult—
and some would say, impossible—to create a preset that captures the
essence of a tube amp ripped to the max like a top fuel dragster coming
off the line. So if you want the sound of a big tube amp dimed and pushing
enough air to part your hair at 100 yards, you can’t go wrong with . . . well,
a big tube amp, and the following tips on old-school miking techniques for
the Real Deal.
Garbage In, Garbage Out Sometimes we can get so focused on having
the latest technical-poot, simple things like keeping guitars and amps in
good working order can escape us. If your guitar strings have six months of
mung and drool stuck to them, change the grody suckers for a new, shiny
set. While you’re at it, have that plank set up and properly intonated or
risk painful facial contortions from those who have good ears. Ditto for
the amp and cab. We’re gonna push the thing to redline, and if its tubes
are spanked and the bias is off , you’ll wind up with limp plastic instead of
heavy metal. Check the cab for buzzes and rattles; the main culprits are
loose back panels, rattling speaker baffles, and loose or blown speakers.
It WILL Get Loud I know that that Marshall, MESA, Bogner, etc., you
mowed lawns for six years to afford has a bitchin’ cascading-gain preamp
allowing you to get crunch when practicing in your bedroom, and the
temptation to crank the preamp gain to 11
and chunk away is natural. Unfortunately, it’s
actually counterproductive to our mission
of conjuring a heavy guitar sound. Preamp
distortion takes on a nasally, fizzed-out
sound—especially when cranking the amp to
the deadly volumes we are about to create.
No, the tone which we seek is not found by
torturing preamp tubes, but by cranking the
output section of the amp till the tubes are on
the verge of meltdown. Keep the amp’s preamp
gain between 50% and 60% and twist the
volume till the speakers really start moving air
and your ears squirt blood.
Mic Check The nice thing about recording
heavy guitar is that you don’t need a bunch
of expensive mics. A Shure SM57 dynamic
will work just fine—as a matter of fact, it’s
recommended by four-out-of-five big-time
producers. Here are a few mic strategies to try;
1) Start by placing the mic close to the
grillecloth, straight on, where the dustcap
joins the speaker cone.
2) Back the mic up an inch and turn the
capsule at a 45-degree angle, pointed
halfway between the dust cap and the edge
of the speaker cone.
3) If you want to get tricky and attempt
a high-zoot dual-mic technique, here is
one that has worked well for me. Use two
SM57s, one super close to the grille, the
other as close to the first as possible, but
backed up about an inch. This provides
a less-than-scientific comb-filtertype
of configuration, and with some
experimentation can add a gnarly punch
to the sound. Experiment with the second
mic by angling the capsule 45 degrees from
the speaker cone. Sometimes this sounds
great, sometimes it sounds like ass; but hey,
sometimes Evel Knievel stuck the landing
and sometimes he crashed and burned.
The Sweetest Spot But wait, you ain’t done
with the mics yet! The aforementioned mic
setups are a mere starting point. Now we must
tweak their positions to find the sweet spot
where the speaker is pumping out the most
delicious mids and optimum fundamental
frequencies so those chunking power chords
don’t mush out. For this task, you need some
poor slob to go out there and move the mic in
small increments between the speaker’s dust
cover and cone, all while the guitarist grinds at
inhuman volume. Good manners suggest you
provide the mic-mover proper ear protection
when performing this critical task. You, on
the other hand, are safely monitoring the
procedure through headphones, listening for
that moment when things sound glorious. Tell
the mic-mover to stop right there; that’s the
proverbial sweet spot. It’s a good idea to keep
the amp head next to you while performing
this crucial operation, so you can make minor
tweaks to its EQ. That way, your poor studio
chimp doesn’t have to spend nine hours on his
knees while you try to dial it all in. It’s a good
idea to record this process, making notes on
the mic’s movements.
Track It! Now’s the time to get that lazy
guitar player off his/her duff and get to work.
You see, the key to awesome metal guitar
sound is multiple precise takes of the same
part over and over. We’re talking a minimum of
four perfectly-executed rhythm tracks of the
same part without variation. These perfectly executed
multitracks will sound absolutely
huge when panned left, right, and center. Sure,
the player is gonna bitch and whine; tell him if
he can’t play the same thing more than once,
he has no place in metal.
EQ Another great feature of Shure’s SM57 is
its ability to hype the mids in a really pleasing
way when slammed with high-decibel
rawk—so you may get away with little or no
EQ. However, a multiband compressor can
work wonders on troublesome frequencies
produced by guitar. If the low end is rumbly,
cut 80–100Hz by a couple of dB. Another
way to avoid rumble is to use a clean boost or
Tube Screamer-type of stompbox with a mild
boost on the front end of the amp. Cut the
250–500Hz range if you are getting too much
“thunk” from speaker movement. Put a narrow
notch around 2.5kHz if your ear feels like it is
being assaulted by an ice pick, while slashing
10–12kHz will kill the sizzle if it’s coming on
too strong.